Amigurumi asks something different of yarn than a scarf does. You need stitches you can see while you work, a fabric dense enough to hide stuffing, and something that holds a shape rather than draping. That narrows the field quickly.
The three yarns worth considering
Cotton
Crisp stitch definition, holds its shape well, and no halo of fuzz to hide your stitches in. It is the most photogenic choice, which is why so many pattern photos use it.
The trade-off is that cotton has no give. It is harder on your hands over a long session, and it is unforgiving of uneven tension because every stitch shows. It also doesn't bounce back if you squash it.
Acrylic
Soft, cheap, available in every colour, and machine washable, which genuinely matters for a toy a child will carry around. It has a little stretch, so it forgives wobbly tension in a way cotton doesn't.
The downside is fuzz. Cheaper acrylics pill and blur the stitch definition, and some split badly when you're working into tight stitches. Buy a decent one rather than the cheapest on the shelf.
Milk cotton
A cotton blend with a soft handle and a slight sheen. It sits between the two: better stitch definition than acrylic, kinder on the hands than pure cotton, and it holds shape well when stuffed. Most of our amigurumi patterns are written in 4-ply milk cotton for exactly that reason.
What to avoid for a first toy
- Fluffy, chenille and eyelash yarns. They make a lovely finished toy and a miserable first one, because you cannot see where your stitches are. Come back to these once you can feel your way through a round.
- Very dark colours. Black and navy hide stitches under any light. If you need a black cat, make your first one in grey.
- Anything that splits. Amigurumi means working into tight stitches over and over. A loosely plied yarn that your hook keeps spearing will ruin the evening.
The hook size rule
This is the piece most new makers miss, and it fixes the most common complaint about crochet toys.
Use a hook one or two sizes smaller than the ball band suggests. If the label says 4 mm, use 3 mm or 3.5 mm.
The ball band recommends a hook that produces a nice drapey fabric, which is the opposite of what a toy needs. A smaller hook gives you a tight, dense fabric with no gaps for stuffing to show through. It is harder work on your hands, and it is the difference between a toy that looks shop-bought and one that looks lumpy and see-through.
If you can see white fibrefill through your stitches, the answer is almost never more careful stuffing. It's a smaller hook.
Weight and how much you'll need
4-ply or DK weight is the sweet spot. Thinner takes forever; thicker makes a toy that looks coarse and loses fine detail like a muzzle or paws.
A small toy of roughly 6 to 8 inches usually takes 50 to 100 g in the main colour, plus small amounts for contrast parts. Our patterns list the exact amounts per colour, so you can check before you buy.
If it's for a baby or toddler
- Embroider the eyes. Plastic safety eyes are secure but not childproof, and embroidered eyes remove the question entirely.
- Choose a machine-washable yarn. A toy that has to be hand-washed is a toy that ends up on a shelf.
- Skip removable accessories — small hats, buttons, anything sewn on lightly.
Patterns to try it on
If you want to test a new yarn before committing to a big project, start small: the Sleepy Striped Cat works up in an evening or two. For something with more shaping, the Lion Plushie and Baby Dragon both show off good stitch definition.
Our amigurumi tips for beginners covers the technique side, and if the very first round is where you're stuck, read how to crochet a magic ring.